Exploring Balat Istanbul: An Insider's Guide to One of Istanbul's Most Unique Neighbourhoods (2024)
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Once a hidden gem, Balat has now become one of Istanbul’s most popular destinations thanks to its technicolour wooden houses being featured all over Instagram.
But Instagram won’t show you what Istanbul insiders like us know: that beyond the area’s rainbows architecture, there’s so much more about Balat Istanbul to love.
We were first mesmerised by Balat five years ago - we had never before seen a neighbourhood that was such a mass of contradictions!
Crumbling Ottoman homes and the remains of old churches shared the pavement with bohemian cafes and stylish boutique stores. Traditional wood-fired bakeries, budget-friendly tradesmen’s restaurants and teahouses sat side-by-side with trendy art galleries, second-hand bookstores and minimalist design studios.
In some ways Balat is a microcosm of Istanbul itself: steeped in history, traditional and religious and yet also incredibly youthful, entrepreneurial, dynamic and modern.
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Balat’s long history as a culturally diverse neighbourhood means that it is not only home to some of the city’s oldest wooden buildings but it also features many unique cultural and religious landmarks that you won’t find anywhere else in Istanbul.
Add in meandering cobbled streets, colourful houses, picturesque cafes, a dynamic arts scene, delicious Turkish cuisine and the opportunity to interact with friendly locals just going about their business and you’ll easily be able to spend a day here.
In this insider’s guide, we’ll cover the best things to do in Balat, including attractions and recommendations that most visitors will miss. We’ll also cover how to get to Balat, the remarkable history of the area plus the top Balat cafes and restaurants and the best Balat hotels.
Whether you’re spending a week or just a few days in Istanbul Balat is a unique neighbourhood that is well worth a visit.
📍 Balat Istanbul Location
So where is Balat in Istanbul?
Balat is located along the glistening shores of the Golden Horn in the district of Fatih, on the European side of Istanbul.
Click here for an interactive Balat Istanbul map showing the exact location of this neighbourhood.
Sometimes this area is referred to as Fener Balat - this is because these two neighbourhoods actually cross over into each other.
Historically, Balat was home to a mixed Jewish, Armenian, Greek and Muslim community whilst Fener was predominantly a traditionally Greek Orthodox neighbourhood.
As both neighbourhoods flow seamlessly into each other, you won’t notice a difference - they both have a rich cultural heritage, lovely cafes, nostalgic cobbled streets, brightly coloured houses and important religious sites. We’d encourage you to just explore!
🚍 How to Get to Balat Istanbul?
It’s possible to get to Balat by ferry but unfortunately not on the back of a seagull.
Balat district in Istanbul is served by a wide range of public transport including buses, trams and ferries.
Balat is actually one of the areas we recommend to stay in Istanbul (we actually lived here for a while) and since it’s so centrally located and well-connected, it’s pretty straightforward to travel anywhere in Istanbul.
Below I’ve outlined how to get to Balat from different areas in Istanbul:
Balat Istanbul Directions by Public Transport:
How to get to Balat from Sultanahmet: Walk to Eminönü bus station and then take the 36CE, 44B, 99, 99A, 99Y or 90. Alternatively, take the T1 tram to Eminönü and then walk to Eminönü bus station. From here you can take any of the above buses to Balat.
How to get to Balat from Taksim: The 55T is the only direct bus to Balat from Taksim. Another option is to take any bus to Eminönü bus station (35C, 73, 76D, 54E, 70FE, E-59) and then change to the 36CE, 44B, 99, 99A, 99Y or 90 to go directly to Balat.
How to get to Balat from Karaköy: Take the 36CE, 44B, 99, 99A, 99Y or 90 bus from the bus stop on Fermeneciler Road. This bus stop is around the corner from Galata Bridge. Don’t wait at the bus stop at the beginning of Galata Bridge as buses going directly to Balat will not stop here.
How to get to Balat from Kadıköy: There is one ferry from Kadıköy to the ferry terminal in Fener every hour. The centre of Balat is just a 9-minute walk from here. Alternatively, you can take the more frequent ferries from Kadıköy to Eminönü and from there take the 36CE, 44B, 99, 99A, 99Y or 90 bus to Balat.
How to get to Balat from Üsküdar: There is one ferry from Üsküdar to the Fener ferry terminal every hour. Like Kadıköy, the ferries from Üsküdar to Eminönü are more frequent - you can jump off the ferry and get the 36CE, 44B, 99, 99A, 99Y or 90 bus to Balat from Eminönü bus station.
The T5 tram line now also runs to Balat, however, it currently doesn’t connect to other public transport options (it actually starts in Cibalı in front of a park). Eventually, it will be connected to the M2 metro line at Haliç and the T1 tram line at Eminönü, which will make getting to this neighbourhood even easier.
Walking
You can walk to Balat from Karaköy (around 40-50 minutes) or Eminönü (30-40 minutes). You’ll have to cross some busy roads but it’s a pretty easy and flat walk. There are also some sections that go through park areas along the Bosphorus, which are lovely, especially during the summer.
❓ Why Should You Visit Balat in Istanbul?
Social media has made the Balat neighbourhood famous - most people who visit the area come to see the colourful houses and take Insta-worthy pics. However, there is so much more to this gorgeous area beyond the usual holy trinity of pose, pout and post!
Fener and Balat have a rich architectural tapestry: you can explore the Armenian and Greek churches, Greek Orthodox schools, synagogues and ancient mosques to gain a deeper understanding of the area’s unique historical diversity.
It is also the perfect place to see local Istanbulites simply getting on with their daily lives. Washing lines are strung out between buildings, kids play football in the narrow streets and the age-old practice of lowering wicker baskets on a rope from a window to collect deliveries of simits and other groceries is a daily occurrence here.
Balat is also replete with quirky coffee shops and restaurants - perfect for taking a break and watching the world go by.
Just one of Balat’s many, many cool cafes.
Many places offer regional Turkish specialities - you can try coffee from Mardin, clay pot kebab from Anatolia or mezes from Antakya! We particularly love having breakfast in Balat - there’s nothing like indulging in a traditional Turkish breakfast before a day of sightseeing!
Culture vultures will love Balat’s art galleries and unusual antique shops. There are also plenty of studios selling ceramics, paintings and other gorgeous handicrafts that are ideal gifts or souvenirs to take back home. Make sure you keep your eyes peeled for the amazing street art around Balat too!
In short, Balat is charming, authentic and completely fascinating!
📜 The History of Balat
Balat and Fener were historically always very multicultural areas in Istanbul.
Following the 1492 Alhambra Decree, many Jews and Muslims fled Spain and were offered sanctuary and citizenship by the Ottoman Empire. Balat quickly became the centre of the Sephardic Jewish community and was once home to 18 synagogues - currently, only three are still in operation.
As well as being the Jewish quarter, Istanbul’s Balat and Fener neighbourhoods welcomed people from many other religions and ethnicities including those from Greek, Armenian and Romani backgrounds.
This is why buildings like the stunning Phanar Greek Orthodox College, the Armenian Apostolic Church and the Bulgarian Iron Church of St Stephen are all in the same neighbourhood. In Balat Istanbul history is all around you!
Today Balat is predominantly Muslim, however, the spirit of welcoming people from diverse backgrounds has continued, with newer residents arriving from Syria, Afghanistan, Iraq and Egypt.
It’s also become a creative hub for young Istanbul designers, entrepreneurs and artists - many of whom choose to open businesses or reside in Balat. Hence the many cool cafes, shops and studios in the area!
👮 Is Balat Istanbul Safe?
In the past, Balat had a reputation as a run-down area, full of dilapidated houses and home to a roaring drugs trade.
However, since the early 2000s, this neighbourhood has seen extensive redevelopment and investment, with some people arguing that the area has become gentrified.
Balat life has changed dramatically - it’s now brimming with cafes, hotels, restaurants, art galleries and apartments. Balat was also inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985 as one of the important Historical Areas of Istanbul.
All of this means Balat today is extremely safe. You’re in more danger of spraining your finger by taking too many photos or overindulging in Turkish food than you are of getting into trouble!
We lived in Balat for a few months and found it very safe even when were returning home late at night.
People in Balat are very friendly so if you’re unsure about something or need help, just ask and someone will gladly help you out. They’ll also be curious about you, so expect to be invited in for a çay and a chat!
We’d still recommend taking the same precautions as you would in any big city: if you’re travelling solo, avoid unlit or quiet areas late at night. Additionally, pickpockets tend to operate in more touristy areas of Istanbul, so take care of your belongings.
📆 What is the best time to visit Balat?
We’ve visited Balat in every season and think it’s a completely gorgeous place to visit all year around. Generally, we’d recommend planning your visit for a weekday as on the weekends Balat gets crazily crowded, even in winter.
Our favourite times to visit Balat are in early spring and in late autumn because the weather is still mild and sunny and the streets are quieter with fewer tourists around.
We also love visiting this area during winter in Istanbul - there’s nothing better than sheltering from the elements in a cute, warm cafe, hot drink in hand.
Below is an outline of what Balat is like during different seasons:
Spring (March, April, May): Mild to warmer weather which is great for walking around. You’ll see fewer visitors so it’s a better time to take photos of the famous coloured houses, streets and rainbow stairs. Hotels and apartments in Balat may still offer discounts.
Summer (June, July, August): It’s hot! But the weather is perfect for sitting outside in cafes and restaurants. This is peak season, so expect Balat to be really busy and crowded. Visit the area before 9 am if you want to take photos when it’s quiet. Istanbul’s summer festivals will be in full swing, with some events taking place in Balat. Accommodation will generally be more expensive during this time.
Autumn (September, October, November): Temperatures slowly start to fall but there are still plenty of sunny days. The mild weather is ideal for exploring the area and there will be fewer tourists so it’s an excellent time for taking photos. Hotel prices will start to drop and some places may offer discounts on your stay.
Winter (December, January, February): Winter in Istanbul is generally rainy, windy and cold, with occasional snow. However, this weather is perfect for cafe hopping between Balat’s cosy cafes and sampling special Turkish winter beverages. Balat’s hotels and apartments are usually discounted in winter, especially for longer stays.
💁 Things to do in Balat Istanbul
See the Famous Coloured Houses of Balat
Perhaps the most famous symbol of Balat is its rainbow-coloured wooden houses. Over the years, these lovely buildings have become the number one tourist attraction in the area.
The houses, known as cumba evleri (homes with alcoves), were once the homes of wealthy upper-class residents of Balat and range from 50 to 200 years old. Whilst many have been restored and turned into apartments or hotels, some are still occupied by local families who have lived there for years.
Whilst every Balat street has a few examples of these delightfully coloured houses, there are some areas which are particularly popular with photographers.
Balat Istanbul Colourful Houses Location: Top Three Spots
Kiremit Caddesi - this street has a row of stunning, brightly coloured multi-storey houses. It’s now become the most popular street to photograph so if you want a good picture we’d recommend visiting this area early in the morning, ideally before 9 am.
Merdivenli Yokuş - The mansions here are on a very steep cobbled street and were originally built by Greek aristocrats living in Fener. There is a cafe at the bottom where you can enjoy a cup of tea after admiring the buildings.
Yıldırım Caddesi - this winding cobbled street has many colourful 19th-century row houses along it. There is some great street art too!
As well as going to the popular spots, we’d highly recommend just wandering around the area and getting lost - you’ll find that many of the backstreets have equally as charming houses and the bonus is that no other tourists will be around. You never know - you might find the most unique, colourful Balat street Istanbul has to offer!
❗ Important: The colourful Balat houses are lovely but while you are getting snap happy please be mindful that regular people still live here - this isn’t just a tourist attraction.
Don’t be that person who blocks the street or doorways to people’s homes or gets in the way of people parking their cars just because you want the perfect photo!
We used to live in an apartment along Kiremit Caddesi right next to the colourful houses and having people pose right outside our window all day quickly started to feel intrusive.
Check Out the Wonderful Street Art
Staying with the “colourful Balat Istanbul” theme for just a moment, we have to mention the stunning street art that decorates abandoned walls, car parks and buildings all over the Fener Balat Istanbul neighbourhood.
The street art here has included pieces by local artists such as Graffiti Türkiye and Kien and famous international artists such as the French photographer JR, whose project ‘The Wrinkles of the City’ came to Istanbul in 2015.
As part of the project, JR pasted large monochrome images of older people who had experienced changes and upheavals in the city onto the walls of 15 mostly dilapidated or abandoned buildings.
A number of these stunning artworks were in Balat, although there was quite a bit of controversy when some of them were painted over!
In Balat, colourful street art really is around every corner - again our advice would be to just wander through the streets and explore, because you’re bound to see some!
New artists are always trying to express their creativity on the walls of the neighbourhood so don’t be surprised if the graffiti art you’ve seen in photos of the area has changed.
Explore the World’s Only Iron Church - the Bulgarian Church of St Stephen
Overlooking the Golden Horn is the very ornate Bulgarian Church of St Stephen or Sveti Stefan Kilisesi. Completed in 1898, this is the only Orthodox Church in the world completely made of iron and was built in just one and a half years.
Designed by the Ottoman-Armenian architect Hovsep Asnavur, the cast-iron pieces for the church were made in Vienna and shipped on 100 barges down the Danube River, across the Black Sea, through the Bosphorus and all the way to Istanbul. In total 500 tons of iron were transported this way!
Considering that this was the late 1800s and way before IKEA's self-assembled furniture and pre-fab houses were even a thing, this is pretty damn impressive.
In 2007, the Bulgarian Church of St Stephen was declared the most beautiful church in Turkey: with its sumptuously gilded interior, high arched ceilings and colourful stained glass windows, it's easy to see why.
St Stephen’s Church reopened in 2018 after undergoing a seven-year restoration which included gold plating the dome of the church. It’s certainly one of the most stunning churches we’ve ever seen!
It’s also a fantastic symbol of Istanbul’s mixed cultural diversity and history: it was paid for by the Bulgarian government, designed by an Ottoman-Armenian architect, produced in Austria and finally constructed in Istanbul. Even the six bells in the church’s tower were made in Russia!
This Bulgarian Orthodox church still holds services on Sundays and is open every day for visitors. It is free to enter.
Admire the Stunning Phanar Greek Orthodox College
Towering over the Fener and Balat neighbourhoods and at the top of the very steep Sancakar Yks street is the striking red brick Phanar Eastern Orthodox College. It seems like every building in Balat has an amazing history and once again, this Harry Potter-style building is no exception.
First established in 1454, with the current building constructed between 1881 and 1883, the College is the oldest remaining and most prestigious Greek Orthodox school in Turkey.
About 50 students still study at this secondary school and the building is often referred to as "the 5th largest castle in Europe" or the kırmızı kale (red castle) because of its castle-like shape and red brick exterior.
The large dome at the top of the building is apparently used as an observatory for astronomy classes and has a large antique telescope inside. (This last fact actually makes us really jealous - why didn't they have these kinds of facilities at our local high schools?)
You can only admire the architecture of the Phanar Greek Orthodox College from the outside as it isn’t open to the public. But honestly, that won’t matter because the outside is so splendid. It really is one of the most unique buildings Balat Turkey has to offer!
Discover Hidden Gems at Balat’s Vintage Stores
Dotted all around Balat’s winding streets are lots of lovely vintage stores and eskici dükkanları (second-hand shops) that are worth a nosey. In fact, we’d argue that no Balat tour is complete without a visit to at least one of these shops!
Here are the stores we’d recommend checking out:
Vintage Clothes at Backstage Vintage
If you’re looking to up your fashion game during your trip to Istanbul, you should definitely check out some of the cool vintage clothing shops in Balat as you’re bound to find something unique.
Our favourite store for vintage clothing is Kulis Vintage aka Backstage Vintage. Here you’ll find a marvellous selection of women’s and men’s clothes, jackets and footwear, plus bags, jewellery, sunglasses and even hats!
Everything in the store is of exceptional quality and the prices are fantastic. The staff are also friendly and happy to help you discover the ultimate retro find. Backstage Vintage really has the best vintage clothes Istanbul has to offer!
Vinyl Records at Hmk Dönence Plak
Love music? Then make sure to stop by Hmk Dönence Plak. Most visitors hear the beautiful music drifting out from this store before they actually see it!
Hmk Dönence Plak is a gorgeous record shop with an incredible selection of very reasonably priced new and second-hand vinyl records, CDs and cassettes. You’ll find music from all over the world here! They also sell books, record players and cool souvenirs, such as vinyl record key rings and coasters.
The store has a small cafe in the back where you can grab a cup of çay and while away your time listening to your favourite music. The owner is super friendly and knowledgeable - tell him what you’re looking for and he’s more than likely to have it in stock.
Second-hand books: Balat Sahaf and Popstel
Finally, if you’re a bibliophile, then head down to Balat Sahaf, a second-hand bookstore tucked away down a small side street and surrounded by antique shops.
Sahafs (second-hand bookstores) are an integral part of Istanbul culture and you can find them all over the city.
In Balat Sahaf you’ll find stacks upon stacks of books from every era covering any topic you can think of. Don’t be fooled: this is actually organised chaos and we found it pretty easy to find the English language section.
Keep digging around and you’ll soon see that there are plenty of rare books that would cost a fortune at a regular bookstore.
Balat Sahaf also sells cassettes, vinyl records and rare copies of magazines that date all the way back to just after the Second World War. If you speak a bit of Turkish, have a chat with the owner Izzet Yılmaz who has run the shop for many years.
If you’re keen to get your hands on rare books, we’d also recommend Popstel, a vintage book store that sells beautiful bound books, antique photos and prints plus copies of old Ottoman newspapers and vintage-style postcards.
With so much to explore, shopping in Balat Istanbul is never boring!
Go On the Hunt for Unusual Antiques
If you’re interested in shopping for unique antiques in Istanbul, then you’re in luck: Balat has a surprisingly large number of quirky antique stores or antikacı where you can browse to your heart’s content.
Many of the collections are gorgeously eccentric and give you an insight into the dealer’s interests which can range from religious objects and symbols to antique medicine bottles, paintings, suitcases, furniture and even clowns!
Here are a few of our favourite stores:
Göç Antik Cafe
One of our favourite shops to go hunting for hidden treasures is the family-run Göç Antik Cafe.
Housed in a low-ceiling stone room on the steep street leading to Phanar Greek Orthodox College, Göç Antik Cafe is filled from floor to ceiling with objects from every faith - you can find Buddhist, Jewish, Sufi, Islamic, Christian and Yazidi items here!
Whilst the owner Yasin Göcet has a penchant for collecting religious artefacts you’ll discover many other hidden gems here including record players, retro oil lamps, antique radios, keys, ceramics and much more.
We spent time chatting to Yasin and discovered that his family have lived in Balat for 30 years. He started collecting antiques as a hobby and then finally opened his store 5 years ago.
If you visit the store we’d recommend sitting down for a çay or Turkish coffee with him - he’s super friendly and will tell you the stories behind some of the items and where he bought them from. (If you don’t speak Turkish, you can always use Google Translate).
If you do want to buy something remember that it is Turkish custom to haggle!
I actually helped a customer from Argentina buy a menorah while I was there - it was a fun experience for me to translate between English and Turkish. Yasin kindly gave me a free drink for my trouble!
Magic Lantern (Büyülü Fener)
Another of the best antique shops Istanbul has to offer is Magic Lantern (Büyülü Fener).
Magic Lantern has a totally different vibe from the other antique stores in the area: you won’t find old Ottoman furniture, sculptures or trinkets here.
In their place are anatomy dolls, typewriters, suitcases, cigarette cases, ornate lacquer boxes, enamel cookware, telephones, toy cars and cameras.
I saw a few things that wouldn’t have looked out of place at my parent’s house and immediately felt nostalgic. This is a shop that gets you to reminisce about your own past.
We particularly loved the old medicine bottles and cabinet in the store - the lovely owner, Gediz, explained that when two pharmacies in Kurtuluş closed down she bought their displays of old bottles.
I really wanted to buy one of them but agreed with Gediz that they look much better as part of a collection.
Take your time browsing around Magic Lantern - there are so many unusual items here that you are bound to find something special.
Mekan Antik
If you’re interested in seeing an antique auction then check out Mekan Antik, which holds online auctions every Tuesday and Thursday at 8 pm.
Their antique pieces are really interesting and include everything from Ottoman chainmail, paintings and ceramics to gorgeously ornate pieces of furniture.
Visit the Beautiful St George’s Orthodox Church
One of the most famous Greek Orthodox churches in Istanbul is St George’s Church, located in the complex of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Istanbul (Constantinople).
The Ecumenical Patriarchate is actually the symbolic headquarters of the Eastern Orthodox Church (think of it as being like the Vatican for Eastern Orthodox Christians). It’s also where the spiritual leader of the church, Patriarch Bartholomew I of Constantinople, resides.
The inside of the Church is stunning: keep an eye out for the Patriarch’s throne which is made from walnut with ivory embellishments and is believed to date back to the late Byzantine period; the extremely ornate and gilded screen of icons and a relic known as the Column of Christ’s Flagellation.
The relic was brought to Constantinople by St Helen, Constantine’s mother, and is believed to be part of the column that Christ was tied to when he was whipped by the Romans before his crucifixion.
If you’re interested in unique festivals in Istanbul, don’t miss the January 6th Epiphany Cross Diving Ritual.
Celebrating the birth and baptism of Jesus Christ, the ritual involves the Patriarch throwing a wooden cross into the Golden Horn, which swimmers then race to be the first to retrieve. It’s amazing to watch, especially considering how cold the water is!
Try Refreshing Gazoz (Turkish Soda) at a Sevda Gazozcusu
Gazos is a uniquely Turkish type of soft fizzy drink that comes in a mind-boggling number of flavours.
This carbonated beverage was first made by the Ottomans and became wildly popular in the 60s and 70s: at one point pretty much every Turkish province had its own flavour of gazoz!
Sadly, Coca-Cola and Pepsi’s eventual dominance in the Turkish market sounded the death knell to gazoz and after the 1970s it was no longer the cool kid on the block. American soft drinks took over and gazoz was forgotten.
But Turkey loves a bit of nostalgia, and the 2000s heralded a gazoz revival. Along with vinyl records and vintage garments was a renewed interest in traditional Turkish beverages.
Dedicated gazoz shops and cafes popped up around Istanbul offering a dizzying array of gazoz brands and flavours.
Sevda Gazozcusu boasts over 130 different types of gazoz from across Turkey and is the place to go if you want to try unusual flavours of this local fizzy drink. Some of the quirkiest flavours include pine soda, bal kaymak (clotted cream), coconut, lavender and chocolate.
I love reyhan (purple basil) flavour whilst Vincent prefers lemon and raspberry. Give it a try - you may never go back to ordinary Coca-Cola again!
Climb the Colourful Balat Istanbul Stairs and Wander Under the Rainbow Umbrellas
Balat is an area chock-full of colour and the rainbow stairs and the umbrella street have become must-visit attractions in the area.
In our opinion, though extremely photogenic, both areas are now tourist traps and we’d say there are many, arguably better things to see in the area. But…Instagram.
Located just off the main drag in Balat, the rainbow stairs lead up to the technicolour Incir Ağacı Kahvesi.
The cafe itself is very pretty and you’ll find some more Balat art here. Like the stairs, it’s painted in bright colours and features drawings and photos of old Turkish movie stars. They serve pretty good food and drinks, so it’s decent for a break.
The rainbow stairs are a popular spot for photographers and local brides and grooms so if you want to get them all to yourself you should visit just after sunrise or in low season. It can get crazily crowded in the summer!
Next door to the rainbow stairs is the Dimitrie Cantemir Museum Cafe (also known as Balat Antik Cafe) which has a courtyard decorated with rainbow umbrellas.
This Balat Istanbul umbrella courtyard is actually part of an 18th-century mansion once owned by the Romanian prince Dimitrie Cantemir who was exiled to Constantinople.
A man of many talents, he was considered to be one of the most important early Enlightenment figures and was a renowned polyglot (speaking eleven languages), composer, writer, historian, philosopher, geographer and ethnographer.
Dimitrie Cantemir’s house was restored and opened as a museum in 2007 but is currently closed.
The cafe has many seating options including multicoloured wooden huts where you can have a drink or a meal.
The people currently running the cafe insist that you must buy a drink or food to take photos of the Balat umbrella street. It’s pricey though and in terms of food and service, we think there are much better cafes in Balat.
Buy Some Arty Souvenirs
As we mentioned before, Balat has become a popular district for artists and designers and you’ll find all kinds of art studios and shops here.
It’s the ideal place to pick up a unique souvenir - you can find everything from cute ceramics to watercolour paintings and pencil drawings.
If you love the coloured houses and want to take a memory of them home (aside from a zillion photos of course!) we’d highly recommend BalaRt Sanat Evi (BalaRt Art House).
Beyhan Gürsoy, a graduate of the State Academy of Fine Arts, opened BalaRt Sanat Evi in the first restored building in Balat over twenty years ago. Originally an interior architect, she moved to Balat and started to work with ceramics.
She now helps to promote and preserve the historical heritage of Balat by producing beautifully detailed ceramic replicas of the area’s historical houses.
These tiny trinkets are a labour of love: it took Gürsoy 1.5 years to make the initial models of the houses! Each piece is also meticulously handpainted and is therefore unique.
At BalaRt Sanat Evi you can buy candle holders, magnets or wall decorations that look like Balat’s colourful houses. They really are the ideal gift or souvenir!
Explore Surp Hresdagabet Kilisesi (Surp Hresdagabet Armenian Church)
Located in the backstreets of Balat is the lovely Surp Hresdagabet Armenian Apostolic Church.
After the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul, some Greek Orthodox churches were converted into places of worship for Armenian Christians. Surp Hresdagabet Kilisesi was one of these, becoming an Armenian Church somewhere between 1631 and 1636.
The original building was wooden and after burning down numerous times, was finally replaced by a stone-built structure in 1835.
A lady of Syrian-Armenian origin kindly gave us a tour of the church. We even visited the crypt which has a holy water spring believed to cure illnesses - one of the reasons why Surp Hresdagabet was also known as the ‘church of miracles’.
The crypt also contains the relics of two saints - Surp Ardemios (also known as Saint Artemius of Antioch) and Saint Peprone - that were discovered during a restoration in 2005.
Many small churches in Istanbul are quite difficult to visit as they aren’t often open. We were told that Surp Hresdagabet Kilisesi is open every day until 4 pm so if you’re interested in unique religious buildings in Istanbul, it’s worth dropping by!
Hang Out in Yolo Art Center & Cafe
One of the newest entries to Balat’s already dynamic and colourful art scene is Yolo Art Center and Cafe.
Opened by Syrian architect Bayan Agha and her husband, film director Jihad Bakr, the centre aims to provide a creative, social and artistic communal meeting space for Istanbul’s young Arab population, who are mainly from Syria.
With anti-refugee rhetoric rising in Turkey, Yolo also provides a space for people to interact with each other, regardless of their ethnic backgrounds, sexual orientation or religion.
Not only does YOLO have a cafe serving amazing drinks (iced Snickers latte baby!), there is also a stage where stand-up comics, orchestras, singers and dancers regularly perform.
Additionally, YOLO’s training centre holds workshops and talks covering a broad range of areas from guitar and art lessons to dynamic discussions on gender identity.
We absolutely love Yolo Arts Center - it’s such a beautifully designed space and everyone is so welcoming and friendly.
We’ve attended a couple of the discussion events now (some are in Arabic and English), had some fascinating conversations and met some wonderful people.
YOLO is a fantastic addition to the Balat art scene and now offers a reasonably priced co-working space, so is a great place to get some work done too.
Relax in Balat Park
If you’re done with sightseeing for the day and want to immerse yourself in nature, then wander over to Balat Park on the shores of the Golden Horn.
With great views, this little green retreat is also an ideal picnic spot.
🥘 Where to Eat in Balat Istanbul
The Best Balat Cafes
A visit to Balat isn't complete without spending some time in at least one of its quirky cafes.
Balat is a cafe lovers paradise and there's something to suit everyone's taste from hip, minimalist places to quirky cafes filled with bric-a-brac. Here are a few of our favourites:
Cafe Naftalin K
(Vegan and vegetarian options are available).
The very quirky Cafe Naftalin K is probably our favourite Balat Cafe and an excellent stop for a cuppa.
This cafe is simply adorable: the walls are covered in vintage items, colourful crocheted cloths decorate the tables and the handwritten menus are designed to look like airmail letters. Plus there are friendly cats you can play with!
Even the tiny toilet is worth a visit as you have to enter through an orange retro fridge door! If you’ve been looking for the most unique Balat cafe Istanbul has to offer, you’ve found it.
However, it’s not just the decor that makes this cafe stand out - it actually has a very unique coffee menu featuring several regional coffees.
We’d recommend trying the Syriac coffee with cardamom, menengiç pistachio coffee, dibek coffee or the delicious milky Mardin coffee. All the coffees are served with sugar-coated almonds - a traditional sweet from southeastern Turkey.
Cafe Naftalin K is also good for light meals and snacks: their menu includes breakfast, lunch (definitely try the vege meze plate) and great homemade dessert options.
🔥 Hot tip:
🥘 Explore more of Istanbul's delicious cuisine with one of these fantastic food tours.
Velvet Cafe
(Vegan & vegetarian options available).
This wonderful cafe has an ornate interior decorated with dark wood and sumptuous mahogany furnishings and a spacious garden terrace filled with plants.
Velvet Cafe has a wall of shelves decorated with elaborate antique Turkish coffee cups - if you decide to have a classic Türk kahvesi, you can actually choose which antique cup you’d like to have it in!
Velvet Cafe also has a fantastic menu which offers various breakfast and lunch options, including traditional Turkish breakfast, a range of egg dishes, borek (a stuffed Turkish pastry) tost (toasted sandwiches), soups, wraps and salads.
Their drinks menu is extensive too: you’ll see tons of unique coffees, teas and fresh juices.
Our favourite drink here is the refreshing reyhan sherbet made with purple basil leaves. It’s delicious, refreshing and the perfect Turkish summer drink!
Aşk-ı Ruba Kafe
Cosy Aşk-ı Ruba Kafe is another great place to try regional variations of Turkish coffee. We loved this cafe particularly because they have a number of Turkish coffee flavours, like cinnamon and clove, that we haven’t seen anywhere else.
The Turkish coffee is prepared in the traditional way - over hot sand - and served with several flavours of Turkish delight.
If you aren’t a fan of Turkish coffee, don’t worry there are other beverages on offer too. The orange hot chocolate is to die for and the homemade strawberry lemonade is a refreshing summer drink.
There is a small upstairs seating area with vintage decor and windows that overlook the street - a great place to watch the comings and goings of Balat. Aşk-ı Ruba Kafe also has some lovely cheesecakes and brownies if you’re after a sugar hit.
Balat Merkez Şekercisi
Sticking with the theme of sweets, Balat Merkez Şekercisi, is an old-school style sweet shop that sells homemade ice cream and delicious Turkish delights. And guess what? This shop first opened 140 years ago!
The owner inherited it from his grandfather and has worked there since he was a young boy. The sweets are baked fresh each day and it's the perfect place to stop for a break on your walking tour around the area.
If homemade ice cream and Turkish delight don't tickle your pickles, don't worry, there's Turkish-style revani (sweet semolina cake soaked in honey) and baklava that we are sure will get your mouth watering.
Evin Unlu Mamuller (Evin Bakery)
One of our favourite places is Evin Unlu Mamuller, a local bakery that has been operating since 1923.
The bakery window is a biscuit lover's dream - there are all sorts of biscuits and pastries that will satisfy your sweet tooth.
Our favourites are the icing sugar-dusted, crescent-shaped elma kurabiye (apple cookies) that taste like the child of an apple strudel and an apple Danish pastry. Simply yums.
You can also get a coffee or tea with your pastry of choice and the friendly owners are more than happy to explain the whole gamut of sweet treats on offer.
Cumbalı Kahve
Opened in 2014, this pretty boutique cafe wouldn’t look amiss on the streets of Paris.
Cumbalı Kahve has a reputation for serving some of the best coffee in Istanbul and it’s easy to see why. This cafe carefully sources its coffee beans from a range of foreign and domestic suppliers and roasts its own coffee (you can actually smell it down the street).
Every drink is expertly made - we enjoyed a full-bodied and velvety Turkish coffee here and it definitely tasted superior to other Türk kahvesıs that we’ve tried elsewhere. Paired with one of their delicious desserts (we’d recommend the brownie or the cheesecake) and it’s an ideal rest stop.
If you love their coffee you can even buy some of their roasted beans to take home with you.
Cumbalı Kahve’s friendly owner also gives you a cute bookmark which shows all the different tourist attractions in the Fener and Balat areas!
Best Restaurants in Balat Neighborhood Istanbul
There are tons of Balat restaurants to choose from and we’d argue that the best food is actually found away from the main streets.
In most cases, you’ll get more bang for your buck eating where the locals eat and it tastes better too. This is a place where you can try really good authentic Turkish cuisine, so don’t miss out! Here are our top picks:
Kastamonu Sultan Lokantası
(Vegan and vegetarian options available).
Serving up cheap and cheerful homestyle food, this is the Balat restaurant to go to if you are on a budget.
This canteen-style restaurant offers a mix of meat and vegetarian dishes (some are vegan) such as kuru fasulye (white beans in tomato sauce), nohut (chickpeas with tomatoes and green peppers), meatballs plus soups, salads and kebabs. Portions are generous and the staff are really helpful and friendly.
If you have room, they also have desserts - try the helva (a semolina-based sweet) or sütlaç (a cold rice pudding).
Kayataş 3 Kepab Pide Lahamacun Salonu
(Vegetarian options available - vegan options can be requested).
Just across the road from the lokanta we mentioned above is this gem of a place. Kayataş 3 Kepab Pide Lahamacun Salonu serves all sorts of fantastic kebabs, pides (Turkish style pizza), lahmacun (a type of flatbread topped with mincemeat, vegetables and herbs), soups, salads and desserts.
Everything is freshly made and delicious. If you’re vegetarian or vegan they’ve got options for you too - you just need to ask and they will do their best to rustle up something.
Prices are extremely reasonable and you won’t leave feeling hungry.
Agora Meyhanesi 1890
(Vegan and vegetarian options available).
If you’re looking for something a little more upmarket or somewhere that stays open late, then we’d suggest this amazing Balat meyhane or tavern.
Opened over 130 years ago, Agora Meyhanesi 1890 is Balat’s most atmospheric restaurant: it’s actually located between the remains of Istanbul’s original Roman-era city walls!
The menu features an absolutely stellar selection of mezze - our favourites are the bademli yoğurtlu kabak (courgette mixed with dill, yogurt and garlic) and the patlican ezme (roasted eggplant). In Balat food doesn’t get much better than this!
Agora Meyhanesi 1890 is also famous for its seafood. You can do as the locals do - order a selection of mezzes and seafood and wash it down with some rakı, Turkey’s strong aniseed-flavoured spirit. Accompanied by some traditional music, it’s sure to be a night to remember!
Balatkapı Cafe ve Restaurant
(Vegan and vegetarian options available).
Breakfast and brunch are the stars of the show at this friendly cafe located right in the heart of Balat.
As well as serving an excellent serpme kahvaltı (a traditional Turkish spread breakfast with numerous dishes), this cafe also has some great lighter options including avocado, beetroot hummus or mushrooms on toast, omelettes, a selection of smoothie bowls and toasted sandwiches.
They also offer some great shakes and juices, a range of coffees and teas and speciality matcha drinks.
Airy and minimalist, this is one of our go-to Balat Istanbul restaurants.
🏠 Where to Stay in Balat
If you’re wondering where to stay, we’d recommend reading our extensive guide to the Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul. It covers all of Istanbul’s major areas (6 districts and 15 different neighbourhoods), including Balat. Plus, it includes the pros and cons of staying in each area and the top attractions.
Alternatively, if you’re looking for stunning hotels with amazing views, check out our guide to the Best Istanbul Hotels With a View.
In a rush? No worries - we’ve got some suggestions for accommodation in Balat below.
We’ve stayed in Balat three times on our trips to Istanbul (and lived here for a while) and we loved it. It’s extremely well connected by public transport and we adore the cafe scene and the area’s historic and arty vibes.
There aren’t any high-end hotels here - the vibe is more cute apartments, trendy B&Bs and friendly homestays.
Check out our Balat hotel recommendations - there is something that suits every budget so pick the one that fits yours.
You can also click here to browse and book hotels in Istanbul.
Photo courtesy of Fener Sweet from Booking.com
OVERALL TOP PICK: Fener Sweet (⭐ 9.5)
Located in the centre of Balat, this super affordable homestay offers ensuite rooms with free Wi-Fi and tea/coffee making facilities. Guests are free to use the spacious living room and kitchen (which includes a washing machine) and enjoy the rooftop garden with lovely views. There is free tea and coffee all day and the hosts are helpful and kind.
Photo courtesy of Hotel Troya Balat from Booking.com
BEST MID-RANGE OPTION: Hotel Troya Balat Istanbul (⭐ 8.7)
This gorgeous boutique hotel is located on a quiet street near the Golden Horn and features charming and clean rooms with flat-screen TVs and free Wi-Fi. Some rooms offer Golden Horn views and a furnished balcony.
The hotel is housed in a 19th century building and has retained the vintage style decor down to the original hand painted murals and wooden floors! Guests can enjoy a complimentary buffet breakfast and the tram line is just 5 minutes walk away.
Photo courtesy of Ottobalat from Booking.com
BEST MID-RANGE APARTMENT: Ottobalat (⭐ 8.8)
These bright apartments are spacious and comfortable and include a washing machine, fully equipped kitchen, coffee machine, dishwasher, free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TV. Located right in the heart of Balat, cute cafes, supermarkets and restaurants are just steps away.
Photo courtesy of Elele Boutique Apartments from Booking.com
BEST BUDGET APARTMENT: Elele Boutique Aparts (⭐ 9.1)
If you’re looking for a quiet apartment that’s still in the centre of Balat, then look no further than these colourful, spotlessly clean apartments. Decorated with traditional Turkish furnishings, each apartment offers a fully equipped kitchen, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning and flat-screen TV.
Balat’s trendy cafes and restaurants are around the corner and the main bus stop is just 4 minutes walk away. The hosts are friendly and incredibly helpful.
🙋 The Best Balat Fener Istanbul Tours
If you really want to get a better understanding of this historical neighbourhood, we’d recommend going on a Fener Balat walking tour with a professional guide.
In our experience, these local tour guides are extremely knowledgeable and will give you a deeper understanding of Balat’s culture and history.
A tour is also a great option if you are short on time as you’ll get to see a lot of sights in the area in a matter of hours.
Here are our top Balat walking tours:
Istanbul: Fener/Balat Walking Tour, Pierre Loti Hill & Ferry
⭐ 4.8/5, 5 hours
This small group tour of Fener and Balat takes you through the historic neighbourhoods with a professional guide.
You’ll explore the Ottoman, Orthodox Christian and Jewish history, and see the wooden houses, churches, mosques and synagogues in the area. You’ll also get a chance to see the original Byzantine city walls before heading to Eyüp.
In Eyüp you will visit the historic Eyüp mosque complex before taking a cable car up to the top of Pierre Loti Hill (named after a famous French poet) which has panoramic views of Istanbul. Enjoy a drink in one of the cafes and then hop on a ferry to Karaköy along the Golden Horn.
Public transport, tea and refreshments at Pierre Loti Hill are included in this tour.
Istanbul: Fener and Balat Guided Walking Tour
⭐ 4.8/5, 3 hours
This walking tour of Fener and Balat with a small group really takes you to hidden places that other tourists usually miss.
Beginning with a ferry ride across the Golden Horn, your first stop will be the remains of the 5th Century Byzantine walls in Ayvansaray, which mark the official endpoint of Constantinople.
You’ll then explore the unusual Greek Orthodox Church of Mary Blachernae. Built on top of a holy spring, it is regularly visited by Greek pilgrims and is apparently the only church in the world to hold a service every Friday morning.
As you wander the winding streets of Balat, you’ll learn about the rich history of the area that was shaped by Armenian Christians, Muslims and Sephardic Jews.
Your Balat walking tour will end at the magnificent Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, where your guide will explain how Christianity was preserved in Istanbul after the Ottoman conquest and the significance of this church in the Christian world. You’ll also see the column believed to be where Jesus was bound and whipped before his crucifixion.
Half Day Fener-Balat Walking Tour in Turkey
⭐ 5/5, 3 hours
If you’re on a budget, check out this reasonably priced half-day walking tour of Fener and Balat.
You’ll explore many of the major sites in the area including the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, the Bloody Mary Church, Phanar Greek Orthodox College, St Stephen’s Church, the colourful stairs and houses and Ahrida Synagogue.
Your Fener Balat tour will finish in true Turkish style - with a cup of traditional coffee!
✋ FAQs about Balat in Istanbul
Is Balat worth visiting?
Absolutely!
A visit to Balat is about so much more than the picturesque colourful houses. If you’re interested in exploring an authentic Istanbul neighbourhood and discovering more about the city’s complex history, unique communities and fascinating cultures, this is the place for you.
How long should I spend in Balat?
Balat isn’t somewhere to rush around. We’d recommend taking your time to wander through the backstreets, nosey in antique shops, cafe hop and visit the area’s most iconic religious and historical landmarks. A couple of days to really explore this area is ideal.
However, if your schedule is tight or you’ve had your fill of Istanbul’s historic attractions (we feel you, there is so much to see here), you can explore Balat in half a day or a full day.
In this case we’d suggest a relaxing walk around the area, taking the opportunity to chat to local people and just seeing what you stumble upon. And of course make time to stop off in a few cafes and restaurants!
How far is Balat from Istanbul?
Balat is a neighbourhood within Istanbul's Fatih district. From Taksim it takes around 20-25 minutes to get to Balat, whereas from Sultanahmet it can take 30-40 minutes. This does depend on traffic though!
Are there any bars in Balat?
No. With the exception of a few meyhanes (taverns), Balat's restaurants and cafes are alcohol free. If you're looking for bars, head to Galata or Beşiktaş.
🚶♀️ Ready to Explore Balat?
We hope you've enjoyed this Balat Istanbul travel guide. Unique, historical and completely charming, Balat has certainly become one of our favourite neighbourhoods.
It’s an area that we’d recommend all visitors to Istanbul to explore, so if you have time on your itinerary, pick up your camera, grab your trainers and get ready to discover this unusual, bohemian district!
Before you go, make sure to check out some of our other Istanbul and Turkey/Türkiye guides:
🏠 Best Areas to Stay in Istanbul: Coolest Neighbourhoods & Top Hotels
🌇 22 Best Hotels in Istanbul With a View
🗓 The Ultimate Turkey Itinerary 10 Days
🇹🇷 The Best Places to Visit in Turkey
🌷 Visit the Istanbul Tulip Festival
🏔 Cappadocia in Winter: 7 Reasons to Visit + 16 Amazing Things to Do
🎄 Christmas in Istanbul: All You Need to Know for a Magical Stay
⛄ 9 Awesome Reasons to Spend Winter in Istanbul
🎪 18 Best Festivals in Istanbul
🍳 Best Breakfast in Istanbul - 16 Incredible Places to Try
✅ 12 Things You Need To Do in Istanbul
🍟 Best Vegan Fast Food in Istanbul
🥑 Where to Find the Best Vegan Turkish Breakfast in Istanbul
🖼️ 14 Top Things To Do in Gaziantep
🍔 Off the Eaten Track: The Best Street Food in Istanbul
🥦 Vegan Istanbul: The Best Under-the-Radar Restaurants
Find more travel tips and useful information on Turkey here.
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